Monday, 9 Sept
The Journey from Columbia Falls, MT to Butte, MT
The drive from Columbia Falls to Butte, Montana, stretched about 232 miles, taking us through diverse landscapes and offering a glimpse of Montana’s rugged beauty, even though much of it was obscured by heavy forest fire smoke drifting in from neighboring states. The smoke cast a hazy veil over the scenery, muting the vibrant colors of the forests and mountains and creating an otherworldly atmosphere as we traveled.
We began our journey on US-2, heading southeast, and soon turned onto Highway 35 toward Big Fork. Initially, we had considered following Highway 35, which runs along the eastern shoreline of Flathead Lake, Montana’s largest natural freshwater lake. However, signs warned of narrow, winding roads with sharp curves, so we took the more straightforward route along Highway 83 instead.
Highway 83 led us through the stunning Swan Valley, a picturesque region nestled between the towering Swan Mountain Range to the west and the Mission Mountains to the east. The valley is known for its tranquil, forested beauty, but the dense smoke unfortunately concealed the majestic peaks that normally dominate the skyline. Along the way, we stopped at Swan Lake and Seeley Lake. Both lakes provided brief moments of natural beauty amidst the muted landscape.
Reaching the small community of Clearwater, we turned onto Highway 200 E. This stretch of the drive brought us through the Blackfoot River Valley, a landscape that gradually transitioned from dense forests to more open grasslands and rolling foothills. One amusing highlight of this section was the sight of “Lola,” a giant fiberglass cow statue standing prominently in front of a Quik Stop gas station.
Little Blackfoot Valley is known as the Vally of a Thousand Haystacks, where rounded haystacks and strange lodgepole structures stand in many of the fields. Here, a contraption called a beaver slide is used to keep the wind from blowing the hay away and reduce stacking time.
We turned south onto Highway 141 from the Blackfoot Valley, which took us into the expansive Clark Fork River Valley. This area was characterized by wide-open grassy meadows and grazing lands, with scattered cattle dotting the landscape.
We continued onto US-12, where the road gently climbed through forested hills and low mountain passes. Eventually, we merged onto I-90 E for the final stretch of our drive to Butte. The terrain here became more rugged, with rolling hills giving way to low mountain ridges.
2 Bar Lazy H RV Park & Campground
The campground was located on the highway just before we got to Butte. When I checked in, the manager admitted to being drunk and had trouble adding up my bill. I did a get Military and a cash discount.
They had plenty of spots available, and we were assigned a pull-through gravel spot with full hookups and no shade. Our site was level, but many of the others around us were not. I shared the power pole with the campsite next to me, and there was only one 30-amp connection and one 15-amp connection. Luckily, the person next to me had a teardrop camper and only used the 15 amp.
Berkeley Pit
After we got the camper set up, we headed into Butte, Montana, eager to explore the rich mining history and unique attractions the city has to offer.
One of our first stops was the Berkeley Pit, a remarkable and sobering site that serves as both a historical landmark and a stark example of environmental consequences. Once one of the largest open-pit copper mines in the world, the Berkeley Pit is now a massive, water-filled scar in the earth. It was mined from 1955 until 1982 when operations ceased due to falling copper prices and increasing environmental regulations. At its peak, the mine was a major driver of Butte’s economy and part of what earned the town its nickname, “The Richest Hill on Earth.”
Once mining stopped, the underground pumps keeping groundwater out of the pit were shut off, and the pit began to fill with water. Over time, the water became highly acidic as it reacted with exposed sulfide minerals, creating a toxic mix filled with dissolved heavy metals like copper, iron, arsenic, and zinc. The resulting water is a striking, otherworldly shade of bright blue-green, an eerie and beautiful hue caused by these metals and sulfuric acid.
After buying tickets, we walked through a short tunnel that cut through the pit’s edge. At the end of the tunnel was a viewing platform that overlooked the massive pit. Standing there, we were struck by its sheer scale—over a mile long, a half-mile wide, and more than 1,700 feet deep.
The viewing area had several informational displays talking about the history of the pit. One spoke of the ongoing efforts to monitor and manage the site. Because the water is so toxic, it poses a risk to local wildlife, particularly migratory birds. There are systems in place, including loudspeaker alarms and even drones, to scare birds away and prevent them from landing in the water. Additionally, the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) and local agencies work to ensure that the rising water levels don’t contaminate nearby groundwater or rivers.
Butte – Uptown
Butte is divided into two main areas: Uptown (often called the “Hill”) and the Flats. Uptown is perched on the steep slopes of the hill where the city’s mining operations began. This was the historic heart of Butte, where echoes of its mining heyday can still be seen in every direction. The Flats are spread across a flatter landscape and was developed later as the city expanded beyond its mining roots and became more focused on residential neighborhoods, industry, and commerce.
When we left the Berkeley Pit, we drove around the Uptown area, where the streets followed a grid pattern as they climbed up and down the rugged hillside. The base of the hill was filled with tightly packed Victorian homes and ornate brick buildings, many dating back to the late 19th and early 20th centuries. Mansions, such as the Copper King Mansion (William Clark) and the Hodgens-Ryan Mansion, remain as reminders of the three Copper Kings. These powerful and rival industrialists were central to Butte’s rise as a major mining city and a global leader in copper production during the Gilded Age during the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Other structures, which include former hotels, saloons, banks, and boarding houses, showcase intricate detailing that reflects the city’s once-thriving economy. Even though many buildings show signs of age and disrepair, some were beautifully preserved or restored.
As we moved up the hill, towering headframes—steel towers once used to hoist miners and ore—rose above the streets like industrial monuments. These structures are unique to Butte, as very few remain elsewhere in the country, and they stand as powerful symbols of the city’s identity. Many headframes were accompanied by interpretive signs, giving context to their role in Butte’s copper mining industry.
We stopped at several of the pocket parks that dot the Uptown district. These small spaces often included memorials, mining equipment, or historical markers. One park featured an old stamp mill, while another had plaques describing the waves of immigrants who contributed to Butte’s growth, including Irish, Italian, Finnish, and Eastern European families.
Speculator Mine Disaster Memorial
At the top of the hill, we found the Speculator Mine Disaster Memorial. This memorial overlooks the city and serves as a powerful tribute to the 168 miners who lost their lives in the tragedy on June 8, 1917.
The Speculator Mine disaster occurred when a fire broke out underground due to a carbide lamp igniting an oil-soaked cable. The resulting inferno spread quickly through the tunnels, consuming oxygen and releasing deadly gases, which became the primary cause of death for most of the miners. A catastrophic event shook the mining industry and left an indelible mark on the Butte community, which relied heavily on copper mining as its economic backbone.
The memorial is simple yet deeply moving. A stone monument surrounded by clean pathways serves as the focal point. Several metal plaques mounted on the monument share detailed information about the disaster, its causes, and its devastating consequences. The names of all 168 miners are etched into the plaques, giving visitors a chance to pause and reflect on the lives lost. Some miners were as young as 17, and many were immigrants who had come to Butte for work and a better future. Seeing their names reminds us of the sacrifices these workers made and the dangerous conditions they endured underground.
The site itself is designed to encourage quiet reflection. The open layout creates a sense of reverence, with benches positioned nearby for visitors to sit and take in the gravity of the event. The memorial looks out over Butte, dotted with headframes and remnants of old mines.
The interpretive panels recount the events of that fateful day and share stories of survival and heroism. Miners who tried to escape faced suffocating smoke and gas, yet some were able to guide others to safety. Rescue efforts in the aftermath were heroic but harrowing, as teams braved dangerous conditions to recover the dead and rescue survivors. These panels also describe the disaster’s impact on Butte’s tightly knit community. Families grieved the loss of husbands, fathers, sons, and brothers, while the city banded together to honor the memory of the fallen and support one another during the aftermath.
The Flats
When we left the Speculator Memorial, we drove to the base of the hill to The Flats area of Buttle. Wide streets and more contemporary architecture dominate the area, reflecting its mid-20th-century growth as mining began to decline. While Uptown holds tightly packed Victorian homes and ornate brick buildings, the Flats are characterized by simpler, post-war homes and commercial developments. Rows of modest single-family houses with small yards line the streets, showcasing a more practical, working-class style of living that emerged as Butte modernized.
The area also houses many of the city’s newer businesses, restaurants, and big-box stores, offering modern amenities for residents and visitors alike. Shopping centers, gas stations, and diners dot the landscape, creating a hub of convenience for locals.
Sparky’s Garage
We decided to mix a little fun and history and have dinner at Sparky’s Garage. Located in Uptown Butte, Montana, this restaurant occupies a historic building that once housed Sewell’s Hardware Store. Established in the early 20th century, Sewell’s was a prominent local business for over 60 years. The building, constructed in 1916, features distinctive architectural elements, including a decorative transom window with prismatic glass tiles designed to enhance interior lighting.
In transforming the space into Sparky’s Garage, the restaurant embraced the building’s automotive and industrial heritage. The interior decor includes vintage gas station memorabilia, such as old gas pumps and a 1949 Chevy pickup truck, creating a nostalgic atmosphere that pays homage to mid-20th-century service stations.
We ordered a big bowl of Mac n’ Cheese with Smoked Sausage and washed it down with a flight of some Montana craft beers that included a “Bridger Primo Pilsner” from Bridger Brewing in Bozeman, a “Kettlehouse 56 Counties” American Light Lager from Kettlehouse Brewing Company in Missoula, a “Huck It!” Huckleberry Blonde from Big Sky Brewing in Missoula, and a “Firefight” Irish Red Ale from Conflux Brewing Company in Missoula.
Anaconda Smelter Stack
After leaving Sparky’s, we headed toward the Anaconda Smelter Stake. Also known as the Anaconda Smoke Stack or simply “The Stack,” this smokestack was built in 1918 as part of the Anaconda Copper Mining Company’s smelting operations. At the time, Anaconda played a key role in copper production, fueling the industrial growth of the United States. The stack was designed to disperse smelting emissions, like sulfur dioxide gas, farther away from the ground, a common strategy back then to reduce local pollution. Standing 585 feet tall, it is one of the tallest free-standing brick structures in the world, even taller than the Washington Monument. The smokestack measures 75 feet in diameter at its base, tapering to 60 feet at the top. It’s an incredible engineering achievement for its time.
By the late 20th century, environmental regulations and a decline in copper production led to the smelter’s closure in 1980. The smelter was demolished, but locals fought to save the smokestack as a monument to Anaconda’s history. Their efforts were successful, and the structure remains today as the centerpiece of Anaconda Smoke Stack State Park.
We opted to find a different vantage point since we didn’t have a Montana State Park Pass and close access to the smokestack was off-limits for safety reasons. Unfortunately, the forest fire smoke made it challenging, and we had to settle for hazy views of the smokestack. Despite the smoky conditions, it still stood impressively tall.
Tuesday, 10 Sept
World Museum of Mining
We took off to the World Museum of Mining in Butte in the morning because we had 10 a.m. tickets for the Underground Mine Tour. We avoided the highway and instead took the gravel and dirt Bluebird Trail Road into town that wound through gently rolling hills, open grasslands, and patches of Ponderosa pine forest.
The World Museum of Mining provides an engaging look into the area’s rich mining history and industrial heritage. Situated on the historic Orphan Girl Mine site, the museum combines authentic mine structures, interactive exhibits, and hands-on opportunities that explore the mining era central to Butte’s development.
The outdoor portion of the museum features the Orphan Girl Mine headframe, a towering steel structure once used to hoist miners and materials deep underground. Surrounding the headframe are displays of mining equipment, tools, and machinery, such as ore carts, drills, and engines, showcasing the scale and innovation of mining operations from the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
Inside the museum were exhibits of minerals, fossils, and historical artifacts that delve into Butte’s geology, mining processes, and the global impact of the area’s copper production. These displays also explore the human side of mining, including the contributions of immigrant labor, the history of labor strikes, and the role of women in mining communities.
Mine Tour
We had the first tour of the day. After meeting our guide and receiving a brief orientation and safety briefing, we were and were greeted by the guide. A highlight of the World Museum of Mining is the underground mine tour, where we descended into the historic Orphan Girl Mine. The experience began with a safety briefing and gearing up with hard hats and headlamps. Guided by knowledgeable staff, we first explored a small museum housed in the old “mine dry,” a changing area for miners. The exhibits included kerosene lamps, drills, a large winch, and 3D models of local mine shafts.
The highlight of the World Museum of Mining is the underground mine tour, where we descended into the historic Orphan Girl Mine. We met our guide at 10:00 a.m. outside, where we were given an orientation and safety briefing and then geared up with hard hats and headlamps. We were then guided to a small indoor museum housed in the old “mine dry,” a changing area for miners. The exhibits included kerosene lamps, drills, a large winch used with headframes, and 3D models of local mine shafts.
We then descended a covered ramp into the mine. The guide explained mining techniques in the dimly lit and damp mine shaft, from hand-drilling and blasting with black powder to pneumatic drills and other advancements. We saw authentic but rusty equipment like ore carts, picks, and shovels.
The tour detailed the harsh conditions miners faced, such as cave-ins, gas explosions, and toxic dust. The guide shared stories of miners’ daily lives, their struggles for better working conditions, and the labor movements that shaped Butte’s history.
We were escorted past timbered supports and ore chutes, where the guide pointed out visible ore veins in the walls. The guide explained how extracted ore was processed and linked to larger industrial operations.
The human side of mining was also highlighted, with anecdotes about miners’ routines, superstitions, and pride in their work. The guide took our pictures standing in a “cage lift” or “mine cage” used to transport miners, equipment, and extracted materials up and down the mine shaft. The tour ended with an opportunity to walk out of the mine on our own, where we could linger around the mine equipment and take pictures.
Old Gulch Town
After the tour, we walked around Hell Roarin’ Gulch, a recreation of a historic mining town. This immersive exhibit transported us back in time with over 50 authentic-style buildings, each designed to reflect the late 19th and early 20th-century mining boomtown atmosphere.
The buildings were furnished with historical artifacts and often labeled with a QR code where we could view a video about the exhibit. Most buildings were closed, and we could only peer inside through dirty windows or chicken wire screens.
Evel Knievel Gravesite
After our mine tour, the guide recommended we grab lunch at the Freeway Tavern. Since it was near the Evel Knievel gravesite, we first stopped there to pay our respects.
Evel Knievel, born Robert Craig Knievel in Butte, Montana, became one of American history’s most iconic stunt performers and daredevils. Rising to fame during the 1960s and ’70s, Knievel captivated audiences with his fearless motorcycle jumps over buses, canyons, and other seemingly impossible obstacles. His stunts often pushed the boundaries of human courage, earning him a legendary status in the world of extreme sports. Despite numerous injuries and crashes throughout his career, his determination and bravado made him a cultural icon and an inspiration for thrill-seekers worldwide.
Knievel passed away in 2007 at the age of 69, and his final resting place is at Mountain View Cemetery in Butte. The gravesite has become a destination for fans, thrill-seekers, and admirers from all over to honor his legacy. The polished black granite gravestone is etched with his image and the words “A Legend in His Time.” Visitors often leave mementos—flowers, motorcycle gear, and tokens of admiration—as a tribute to Knievel’s daring spirit.
Freeway Tavern
We then drove over to the Freeway Tavern. The tavern has been part of the Butte community for decades, and its charm includes a vintage, dive-bar feel that appeals to those looking for an authentic local experience. It is best known for its signature dish, the Wop Chop—a breaded and fried pork chop sandwich served on a bun with lettuce, tomato, and onions. The sandwich has become a local favorite and is a big draw for both locals and visitors.
We sat up at the bar, and I ordered a Wop Chop while Lisa got some large Chicken Tenders. We both had a side of JoJos. a variation of thick-cut potato wedges, often preboiled, and then coated in batter or seasoned flour and deep-fried. We washed it all down with some Alaskan Amber Ale.
Butte Trolley Tour
We then decided to take the Butte Trolley Tour, a popular excursion run by the Chamber of Commerce, to learn even more fascinating Butte history.
After we bought our tickets at the Chamber of Commerce, we explored their small museum since we had about an hour to wait. It also allowed us to talk with the guide before the tour began.
Once we set off, our guide took us on a fascinating drive through the city, pointing out various historical buildings and weaving a captivating narrative about Butte’s rich history. We stopped at the Berkeley Pit, the massive open-pit copper mine filled with toxic water, stretching nearly a mile wide. The sheer scale and the pit’s stark, almost otherworldly appearance was worth visiting again.
Continuing our journey, we ventured through historic Uptown Butte, where the guide pointed out more historical buildings. This area is steeped in the legacy of the mining industry, with old saloons, speakeasies, grand hotels, and boarding houses that once accommodated miners. One of the most intriguing landmarks was the Dumas Brothel, once part of Butte’s infamous red-light district that now serves as a museum, offering a glimpse into a different era.
As we drove through the streets, we also passed numerous grand mansions, including those that once belonged to the three Copper Kings—William A. Clark, Marcus Daly, and F. Augustus Heinze. These opulent homes are reminders of the immense wealth and influence these industrial magnates wielded during Butte’s mining boom.
The trolley tour lasted two hours and was a nice introduction to Butte, though it would have been better if we had taken it on our first day in Butte.
One highlight was his narrative of how Butte’s mining operations had poisoned the water and destroyed the local landscape.
Largest Superfund in the United States
Butte, Montana, once the “Richest Hill on Earth,” is now one of the largest Superfund sites in the United States, a designation given by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) for areas requiring significant environmental cleanup due to hazardous waste contamination. Decades of intensive copper mining, smelting, and industrial activity left a legacy of environmental damage, but ongoing cleanup efforts have made significant strides in addressing these issues and restoring the community.
Before cleanup efforts began, Butte’s terrain was marked by large, exposed tailings piles, polluted rivers, and the Berkeley Pit, a massive open-pit mine filled with toxic, acidic water. Silver Bow Creek, once a dumping ground for mine waste, was severely contaminated, and the surrounding areas were littered with toxic dust and barren land.
Today, Butte’s environmental cleanup has made significant strides. Though still a dangerous toxic lake, the Berkeley Pit is managed through a pump-and-treat system that prevents contamination from spilling into nearby waterways. Silver Bow Creek has been dredged and restored, with toxic sediments removed and the stream banks replanted to promote ecological recovery. Contaminated soils throughout the area have been capped with clean soil and vegetation, transforming former mining zones into parks, trails, and green spaces. The cleanup has improved water quality, restored habitats, and reduced pollution, gradually turning a once-polluted industrial landscape into a more livable and sustainable environment.