18 October, Sunday
The Drive to Johnson’s Shut-In State Park
The drive from Lake Wappapelo State Park to Johnson’s Shut-In State Park was a pleasant two-hour journey. The first two-thirds of the drive was over a divided highway, making for a smooth and easy trip. However, the final third took us through winding county roads as we entered the Ozarks. Despite the curves, Lisa had no trouble navigating the roads.
We had a minor scare on one of the narrow roads when a truck came around a corner, slightly crossing our lane. I’m still not sure how they managed to avoid hitting our trailer mirrors, but it was a reminder that locals and truck drivers often drive much faster than one might expect on these hilly roads.
Johnson’s Shut-in State Park Campground
We arrived at the campground well before the usual 2 pm checkout time, so we weren’t sure if our site would be available. As we drove through the campground, we saw several campers still packing up, but thankfully, we found our site empty. We stopped in our loop at a nearby water point to fill up before parking.
Our site was perfect. It had a large concrete slab, spacious enough to accommodate our trailer, truck, picnic table, and firepit. With rain expected in the coming days, we appreciated the convenience of the solid surface. Additionally, our site was right next to the shower facilities, which was both a blessing and a curse—easy access for us, but it did mean more foot traffic near our campsite.
After setting up, we enjoyed lunch at our picnic table before riding around the park to get familiar with the area. The park had four loops designated for trailers: Loop 1 was for equestrian camping, Loop 2 offered full utilities, Loop 3 (where we stayed) had electric hookups only, and Loop 4 was basic. For tent campers, the park had walk-in sites with small wagons available at the entrance to help carry gear to the sites.
The Shut-ins
The campground was about a mile from the main state park area where the renowned shut-ins were located. Eager to explore, we quickly set up the trailer and headed over to see the sights. As we entered the park, we were immediately struck by the large boulders scattered around. We later learned that these boulders had been brought to the park by a massive flood triggered by the Upper Taum Sauk Reservoir dam breaching in 2005.
On December 14, 2005, at 5:12 a.m., the Upper Taum Sauk Reservoir walls failed after the reservoir became overfilled, releasing 1.3 billion gallons of water down Proffit Mountain. This surge of water created a 20-foot crest that rushed down the East Fork of the Black River, devastating everything in its path. The flood knocked over thousands of trees, displaced sediment, and rocks, and altered the river’s course. Tragically, it destroyed Johnson’s Shut-In State Park, burying it under mud, rocks, and debris.
Remarkably, despite the severity of the disaster, no lives were lost. However, the superintendent of Johnson’s Shut-Ins and Taum Sauk State Parks, Jerry Toops, and his family were swept away when the floodwaters demolished their home. Fortunately, they survived with only minor injuries and exposure.
Restoration efforts began immediately after the disaster. Over a year, more than 15,000 truckloads of debris were removed from the park. The Black River was restored to its original path, and a 15-acre lake formed by the flood was filled in. Although the Shut-Ins withstood the flood’s force, 180 tons of rock and silt had to be removed by helicopter. By July 2007, two years after the disaster, the park was reopened for limited use. The Upper Reservoir was rebuilt using concrete walls rather than earth-filled ones, and the reservoir and its hydroelectric plant were back in operation by 2010.
Following the signs to the shut-ins area, we parked in a large lot and walked along a boardwalk that led to the river. While the water level was low during our visit, the shut-ins were still stunning. Water cascaded through the narrow rock formations, creating small waterfalls and a serene atmosphere. In summer, the water is much higher, and the area becomes a popular spot for swimming and rock hopping. Despite the cool weather, we saw a dozen people scrambling across the rocks, with one brave little girl wearing only her swimsuit. I joined in and spent some time rock hopping before settling down with Lisa on a large rock to relax and enjoy the beauty surrounding us simply.
I learned that “shut-ins” refers to a unique Ozark rock formation where a stream is confined to a narrow valley or canyon, exposing the harder rhyolite rocks beneath. This geological feature creates a network of pools, rivulets, rapids, and plunge pools as the stream flows over the rocks. Johnson Shut-ins is particularly special due to its narrowness, rocky nature, and the four volcanic eruptions that contributed to its formation, making it one of the most varied and striking shut-in formations in the region.
Johnson Cemetery
After leaving the shut-ins, we took a short detour to visit the Johnson family cemetery near the parking lot. This peaceful spot holds the graves of some of the early settlers and original landowners of the area, including members of the Johnson family, for whom the park is named. The cemetery serves as a historical reminder of the region’s past, offering a quiet reflection on the lives of those who once called this land home.
The gravestones, though weathered, are a testament to the area’s rich history, and the cemetery is thoughtfully maintained as part of the state park’s efforts to preserve the heritage of the land. The location is serene, with mature trees and a gentle landscape, providing a solemn contrast to the nearby natural beauty of the shut-ins. It was a nice moment of pause and contemplation before we continued our exploration of the park.
Picnic Area
We then drove over to the picnic area to look around. Since you cannot bring food and disposable containers to the shut-in area, which includes disposable drink containers, the park had a nice large picnic area away from the shut-ins. This area had more information kiosks and a spiral mosaic in one of the shelters with a natural history timeline that Lisa videotaped.
Park Visitor Center
After leaving the cemetery, we drove to the park’s visitor center to pick up a trail map and learn more about the area. The visitor center was easily recognizable by its decorative columns, which added a charming touch to the overall architecture. We were pleasantly surprised to discover that a small museum was open during our visit.
Inside, we took the time to watch three informative short films. The first explored the region’s natural history, offering insights into the area’s rich geological and ecological background. The second film focused on the power of water and its profound impact on shaping the landscape. The third film told the dramatic story of the 2005 flood and the subsequent recovery efforts that helped restore Johnson’s Shut-ins State Park.
In addition to the films, we explored a few interactive exhibits that highlighted local ecology and the way of life in the Ozarks. These displays showcased the unique flora and fauna of the region, as well as the history and traditions of the people who have lived here for generations.
I was also thrilled to find a trail map, which would be invaluable for our future hikes around the park. The visitor center was a great place to learn more about the area, and it provided us with a deeper appreciation for the natural beauty and history of Johnson’s Shut-ins.
Taum Sauk Lower Reservoir
After we visited the visitor center, we decided to drive up to Taum Sauk Lake, the site of the devastating 2005 flood, to explore the source of the destruction and take in the local scenery. It was about a half-hour drive, and we turned off onto CR-210, a narrow road that eventually gave way to a dirt path. The road wound through the Ozarks, and after about five miles, we reached the lower reservoir dam of Taum Sauk Lake.
The site was peaceful, and we snapped a few pictures of the dam and the surrounding landscape. It was hard to imagine the incredible force of the water that had surged through this area just a few years earlier, reshaping the land and causing such devastation. The tranquil setting of the reservoir contrasted sharply with the history of the 2005 breach.
We then decided to continue our exploration and followed the dirt road as it circled the lake. The journey provided us with beautiful views of the water and the surrounding forest. Eventually, the road connected with the paved CR-204, which ascended Profitt Mountain, leading us toward the upper reservoir and the hydroelectric plant.
The drive up the mountain was scenic, with the winding road offering panoramic views of the valley below. It was incredible to think that such beauty had endured the challenges of nature and that restoration efforts had successfully rebuilt the area after the flood.
Taum Sauk Upper Reservoir
The Taum Sauk Upper Reservoir, built in the early 1960s, is a man-made lake perched atop Profitt Mountain. The reservoir is contained by a massive wall that stands nearly 100 feet tall, making it an imposing structure in the Ozarks landscape. It holds over a billion gallons of water, pumped from the lower reservoir during off-peak hours at night when electricity demand is lower. Once stored in the upper reservoir, this water is released through a 7,000-foot tunnel to the hydroelectric plant located 760 feet below, where it generates electricity.
What’s fascinating about the upper reservoir is how seamlessly it blends into the natural environment. While navigating the dirt roads on our way to the lower reservoir, we unknowingly passed by the upper reservoir, its vast surface shimmering beneath the mountain’s ridge. We hadn’t realized what we were seeing until later when we learned more about the area.
The upper reservoir is an integral part of the Taum Sauk Hydroelectric System, designed for pumped storage. This method of generating electricity helps meet peak energy demands by storing water when the grid has excess capacity and releasing it when the demand is high. It’s an impressive feat of engineering nestled within the natural beauty of the Ozarks.
When we got to the top of Profitt Mountain, we found the road to the reservoir gated so we were unable to see the plant or the reservoir up close. On our way back down the mountain, we saw a lot of trees damaged from recent flooding.
Taum Sauk Mountain State Park
After leaving the Taum Sauk Reservoir, we headed to Taum Sauk Mountain State Park, home to Missouri’s highest point—Taum Sauk Mountain. The park offers stunning views of the surrounding St. Francois Mountains, an ancient mountain range that has been shaped over millions of years by erosion.
Just outside the park’s entrance, we discovered an observation tower. While the tower’s top floor was locked, preventing us from fully accessing it, we could still climb the stairs and enjoy a spectacular panoramic view from the top. The view of the rugged St. Francois Mountains stretching across the horizon was breathtaking, offering a glimpse into the natural beauty of this part of the Ozarks. The park’s elevation at 1,772 feet gives it a unique vantage point, making it a popular spot for those wanting to experience the highlands of Missouri.
The observation tower was a great starting point for exploring the area, and while the locked door was a bit of a letdown, the views we enjoyed from the top of the stairs were certainly worth the stop. The park is known for its hiking trails, including those that wind through the Ozark forests and provide access to some of the most scenic vistas in the state.
We then drove into the park and around the small paved area there. The camping area was really small, and we discovered that it only offered tent camping sites.
We then stopped at a scenic overlook that was near the entrance.
It was now about 4:30 pm, and because of the thick rain clouds, it was getting dark fast, so we decided to head home. On the way down the mountain, we saw about a dozen deer, including at least one buck, so we were very careful as we left the area.
We drove through many beautiful countryside on the way back to our campsite. We stopped at Casey’s gas station in Ironton, to get some gas and a pizza.
Evening
When we got back, we went inside and enjoyed the pizza. We were fortunate that we had only seen a couple of drops of rain the entire day, even though the forecast had called for thunderstorms the entire day. We can only hope that we are so fortunate tomorrow.
19 October, Monday
Morning
It ended up raining all night, but we both find rainfall on the top of the trailer relaxing. It stopped raining by morning but it was cold so we stayed in the trailer enjoying our fireplace until mid-morning. The high for the day was not expected to be greater than 50 degrees.
I walked over to the shower house so that I could trim my beard and take a long, hot shower. I did keep an eye on an extremely large spider I found in the shower house, though.
Johnson’s Shut-in
We then decided to visit Elephant Rocks State Park, which was nearby, but we first stopped off at the shut-in to see if the rain overnight had caused the water level to be higher. We think we noticed a few changes in the shut-ins, but we weren’t sure.
Elephant Rocks State Park
After leaving Johnson’s Shut-ins, we headed to Elephant Rocks State Park, just a short drive away. Upon arriving, we were immediately greeted by children’s laughter and screams. A church bus was parked in the lot, explaining the activity and noise near the large boulders near the entrance. However, instead of joining the crowd, we took the quieter path and explored the park’s one-mile Braille Trail.
The Braille Trail is an accessible, paved path that meanders through a remarkable boulder field. As we walked, we appreciated the thoughtful design of the trail, with information kiosks that included both Braille and text. Ropes were strategically placed near each turn and kiosk, offering additional assistance to those with visual impairments. This inclusive feature made the trail educational and welcoming to a broader range of visitors.
The boulders at Elephant Rocks are an impressive sight. Before becoming a state park, this land was a granite quarry, and the sheer size of the stones left behind is astounding. The trail took us around and through the boulders, guiding us to the top of a hill where we encountered the park’s namesake—massive, rounded granite boulders that resemble the shape of elephants. As we continued on the trail, we came across remnants of a train house used in the quarry days, where granite rocks were loaded onto trains for transport. We also stopped at a beautiful water-filled quarry, offering a serene view in contrast to the rugged boulders.
We were so captivated by the park’s landscape and natural beauty that the one-mile trail took us a couple of hours to complete. The weather had been clear, but a heavy downpour started just as we reached the end of the loop. We quickly hustled back to the truck, and by 1 p.m., we were enjoying lunch from the comfort of the cab. While it wasn’t the picturesque lunch spot we often seek, the view of the boulders as we ate still made for a pleasant and memorable stop.
We then decided to drive to more State Parks and State Historic Sites in the area. It was a foggy day, though.
Fort Davidson State Historic Site
Our first stop was the Battle of Pilot Knob State Historic Site, where we were eager to explore the history of the Battle of Pilot Knob. Unfortunately, the museum was closed for the day, with hours limited to weekends. Since it was still raining steadily, we decided not to venture outside to explore the outdoor information kiosks or walk the grounds, as the weather didn’t seem to be in our favor for an outdoor tour.
Though we didn’t get to experience the site as planned, we learned that the Battle of Pilot Knob was a significant event during the Civil War. The fort, which was constructed in 1864, played a key role in the region’s defense during the conflict. The site includes the fort’s remains, along with several historic markers and interpretive signs that provide context to the battle and its importance in Missouri’s Civil War history.
While the rain kept us from exploring, it gave us an excuse to plan a return visit when the weather is better, so we can fully appreciate the historical significance of this location and explore the surrounding areas on foot.
Hawn State Park
After about 45 minutes of driving, we drove to Hawn State Park, a hidden gem nestled in the heart of Missouri. As we neared the park, we realized we were getting a strong mobile internet signal while driving through Doe Run, so we decided to quickly stop at a Dollar General parking lot. With no internet access at the park, it was the perfect opportunity to take care of some online tasks. While there, I downloaded a few Netflix shows for later entertainment. We synced our photos to Google Photos, and Lisa uploaded some pictures to Facebook to stay connected with family and friends.
Once we had finished our online business, we headed back toward Hawn State Park. Along the way, we drove through the charming and historic downtown area of Farmington, taking in the sights of beautifully restored homes that added to the area’s charm.
As we got closer to the park, we noticed it was situated in a scenic, deep valley surrounded by dense forest. The winding road to the campground was steep, and we enjoyed the beautiful views as we descended into the park. Despite it being a Monday, the campground was surprisingly busy, with a number of trailers already parked in the area, making it clear that Hawn State Park was a popular spot for campers.
The park was not very large, but it offered a peaceful retreat with various trails and natural beauty. We were eager to explore the park, and the forested surroundings and well-maintained trails promised a great opportunity for outdoor adventures.
Missouri Mines State Historic Site
After leaving Hawn State Park, we made our way to the Missouri Mines State Historic Site on the other side of Farmington. Once a massive lead processing plant and mine, this site offered a glimpse into the region’s industrial past. The historic complex, which had been abandoned for years, still stood as a testament to the importance of lead mining in Missouri’s history.
The former powerhouse of the mine had been transformed into a museum, housing a fascinating collection of minerals and artifacts related to the mining process. Unfortunately, the museum was only open on weekends after Labor Day, so we were unable to explore the exhibits in person. However, the impressive size of the complex itself was enough to leave us in awe. While the buildings around the site were weathered, with shattered windows and signs of rust, they conveyed the scale of the operation that once took place there.
As we walked around the perimeter, we marveled at the sprawling site and noted its historical significance. The towering structures, now slowly crumbling, still carried an air of industrial power, and it was easy to imagine the bustling activity that once took place there. Though we couldn’t visit the museum, it was still a memorable stop, and we couldn’t help but appreciate the rich history that had shaped this part of Missouri.
St. Joe State Park
After leaving the Missouri Mines State Historic Site, we made our way to St. Joe State Park, just a short 10-minute drive away. Upon entering the park, we were greeted by a very young Park Ranger who kindly informed us that the park would close at 5 pm, but since it was only 3:30, we still had plenty of time to explore.
St. Joe State Park is a unique destination with two main areas that cater to different interests: a serene campground and a massive ATV recreation area. We began our visit by driving through the campground, nestled within a forest. The campsites were equipped with concrete pads and offered easy access to a clean and well-maintained shower house. It was a peaceful and forested environment, making it a nice spot for those who prefer camping in a more secluded setting.
Next, we ventured over to the ATV track, and its size blew us away. This expansive dirt area was designed for off-road enthusiasts, featuring large jumps, wide tracks, and enough space to accommodate at least a hundred ATVs at once. It was easy to see why the park draws ATV lovers, as it offered an adrenaline-pumping experience for all skill levels. For added convenience, there was even an ATV-only washing station to clean off the dust and mud after a ride.
In addition to the track, we noticed a few ATV trails winding through the woods, offering a more natural, off-road experience for adventurers exploring the park’s rugged landscape. Nearby, two small lakes provided a calm and serene atmosphere for kayaking, creating a nice balance between the high-energy ATV area and the peaceful water settings.
Plenty of picnic tables were scattered throughout the park, making it an ideal spot for families or groups to gather and enjoy meals together. Though the park had a lively energy, we could imagine that it could get quite loud on weekends as ATVs filled the track. Despite this, it was a fun and dynamic park with something for everyone—whether you’re looking for quiet camping in the forest or an action-packed day on the ATV trails.
St. Francois State Park
After leaving St. Joe State Park, we headed toward St. Francois State Park, about 15 minutes away. The entrance to the park was a bit tricky to find, as it involved a sharp turn off a busy highway and a winding drive up some rather rough, uneven roads. But once we arrived, the park’s beauty made the bumpy ride worthwhile.
St. Francois State Park is situated alongside a large, meandering bend of the Big River, creating a peaceful, scenic environment. This part of the park was especially popular with swimmers, as the river’s calm waters made for a great spot to cool off. The high bluffs rising along one side of the park added to the stunning landscape, offering beautiful views of the river and surrounding wilderness. It was a picturesque location, perfect for nature lovers and photographers alike.
The park had plenty of parking areas and picnic benches, allowing visitors to relax and enjoy the views from various vantage points. The park’s design took advantage of the river’s natural curves, providing a variety of spots to sit and take in the scenery.
While standard in its offerings, the campground was set in a lovely forested area. It provided the usual amenities, making it a convenient and comfortable place for those looking to camp and explore the park. Whether you were enjoying the bluffs, the river, or just a peaceful afternoon picnic, St. Francois State Park had a lot to offer in terms of beauty and relaxation.
Drive Back
We were over an hour from our campsite, so we decided to head back before it got too dark. The overcast skies caused it to get dark fast. The tree colors had been beautiful all day, with their colors at their peak. The rain fog covered the tops of the peaks of the St Francois Mountains, giving them a different look from the day before.
Evening
When we got back to the site, Lisa cooked up some Salmon burgers and we watched some of the Netflix shows we had downloaded.
20 October, Tuesday
Morning
It was raining hard when we woke up, so we decided to do some grocery shopping in the morning and then drive in the afternoon. We also hoped that we could find some internet while we were shopping so that I could google for some attractions in the area while she shopped. I took another shower in the shower house, which was nice even though I had to run through the rain to get there. Lisa used the trailer shower.
Grocery Shopping
We drove into Ironton but never could find a cell phone signal strong enough for me to surf the internet, so we stopped at Casey’s first and used their free wifi. Afterward, we went to the grocery store and stocked up for the rest of our trip. When we got back, we ate lunch and headed out to do some more sightseeing.
Shut-Ins
It had stopped raining, so we decided to check out the Shut-ins first to see if the rain caused any more changes in the water level and the look of the rapids. We both agreed that the waterfalls appeared a little bigger and more vigorous.
Drive to Sam A. Baker State Park
The drive to Sam A. Baker State Park was an atmospheric journey, marked by a thick fog that enveloped the landscape, obscuring the tops of the surrounding hills and, at times, even the road ahead. The fog added an eerie, almost mystical quality to the Ozark scenery as we navigated the winding, curvy roads through the rolling hills. Each twist and turn of the road revealed a new view, with vibrant fall foliage painting the landscape in red, orange, and gold shades.
We made a brief stop in the charming town of Lesterville, which provided a perfect opportunity to stretch our legs and take in the beauty of the Black River. The river, which flowed calmly through the town, was a stunning sight, its waters reflecting the misty atmosphere. The peacefulness of the scene, paired with the low hum of the river, offered a serene moment to appreciate the area’s natural beauty before continuing our journey.
Despite the fog, the drive remained incredibly scenic, with every new curve revealing more of the Ozarks’ colorful, rugged terrain. It was a slow, picturesque ride that made the anticipation of arriving at Sam A. Baker State Park even more exciting.
Sam A. Baker State Park
As we drove down CR-143, we were immediately immersed in the beauty of Sam A. Baker State Park. The first thing we noticed were the quaint cabins lining the road, offering a cozy, rustic feel. Across the way, we spotted the Visitor Center and the campgrounds, both conveniently located to serve park guests.
A sign directed us to a water access point along Big Creek, and we couldn’t resist stopping to explore. The creek was stunning—its crystal-clear water glistened under the soft light. Gentle rapids flowed over what seemed like the remnants of an old road, creating a tranquil and picturesque scene. Wearing her trusty rubber boots, Lisa eagerly waded into the cool, refreshing water, enjoying the serenity of the creek for a while.
After leaving the creek, we continued our exploration, driving through two separate, quiet campgrounds about half a mile apart. Each campground was surrounded by a dense forest, providing plenty of privacy. Between the two, we discovered ample parking spaces and picnic tables, perfect for relaxing by the creek and soaking in the peaceful surroundings. It was clear this was a wonderful spot to spend a day, whether playing in the creek, having a picnic, or simply enjoying the area’s natural beauty.
Clearwater Dam
As we continued our journey, my planned route took us over Clearwater Dam, shrouded in a thick blanket of fog. The mist hung heavily over the dam, giving the scene an ethereal and almost mysterious atmosphere. The damp, foggy air added an element of quiet stillness, making the usually impressive structure seem even more dramatic. As we drove across, the full scale of the dam was somewhat obscured, with only the edges of the reservoir and the surrounding landscape visible through the haze. The fog muted the usual sounds, making the experience feel more tranquil and reflective than usual. Despite the reduced visibility, it was still a striking sight, and we couldn’t help but appreciate the power and beauty of the Clearwater Dam, even under such mystical conditions.
We also stopped for some photo ops at the Clearwater Lake Resort, where they had large fish statues.
It was foggy most of the way home as we wound our way back through the Ozarks to our campsite.
Evening
Lisa made chili for dinner, which was great. We then watched some more Netflix shows that I had downloaded.
21 October, Wednesday
Morning
The morning was warmer than usual, and after the rain stopped, I had planned to sit outside and enjoy my coffee. However, as soon as I was about to step outside, the rain returned, falling heavily again. I turned on the radio, and the forecast confirmed that the rain would continue through the morning but clear up in the afternoon. With that in mind, we decided to make the most of the day by driving around the area.
Dillard Mill State Historic Site
After breakfast and showers, we explored the northeast area of our campsite. Our first stop was the Dillard Mill State Historic Site, down a two-mile gravel road leading to a peaceful picnic area. From there, a quarter-mile trail took us past Huzzah Creek and a tranquil pond before reaching the mill.
The mill, originally built in 1853 and known as the Wisdom Mill, had an interesting history. It was destroyed by fire in 1895, but a new Mische Mill, was constructed in 1908. This mill was unique because it used an underwater turbine instead of the traditional waterwheel. The owners also altered the stream’s course and the site’s bluff to accommodate the new structure. The mill operated until 1956, and in 1975, the state took over the property, renaming it the Dillard Mill in honor of Joseph Dillard Cottrell, who had owned Wisdom’s Mill from 1881 to 1889. The small community that grew up around the gristmill also took the name Dillard. The mill was designated a historic site in 1977, and restoration was completed in 1980.
The mill was locked, but the surrounding area was the real highlight. The picturesque scene, with water cascading over a man-made waterfall into a pond beside the mill, was a perfect spot for a quiet moment. We explored the area and found several information kiosks that provided insight into the mill’s history, the nearby town, and how tourism had developed around the site. The serene setting and the mill’s fascinating past made for an enjoyable visit despite being unable to tour the inside.
Steelville
After leaving the mill, we walked toward Steelville, a charming small town that proudly claims to be the “floating capital of the Ozarks.” The downtown area had a touristy vibe, with at least a dozen half-canoes lining the streets, adding a playful touch to the scene. The town’s claim to fame as a hub for floating adventures was apparent, giving the area a welcoming, outdoor-focused energy.
We decided to stop at a quaint little city park, Hoppe Springs Park, for lunch. The park was named for the spring that flowed through it, adding a refreshing and peaceful element to the surroundings. We found a comfortable bench and enjoyed lunch while watching ducks swim and play in the stream. The gentle sound of the water flowing through the park added to the tranquil atmosphere.
After eating, we took a stroll around the park, exploring its small but charming features. The park was home to a one-room schoolhouse, which added a bit of history to the peaceful natural setting. We also discovered a historic well, enhancing the park’s quaint, small-town appeal. It was a lovely, serene spot that offered a break from our travels and allowed us to appreciate the simpler pleasures of the area.
Washington State Park
After lunch, we made our way to Washington State Park, which had a mostly empty campground like many other parks we’d visited. It was a peaceful atmosphere, with plenty of space to enjoy the outdoors.
We decided to head down toward the river, where we discovered a lodge with several signs advertising cabins, float trips, and even hand-dipped ice cream—a tempting combination for anyone looking to spend a day by the water. Nearby, a large field was dedicated entirely to parking for visitors taking part in the floating trips, emphasizing the park’s popularity for water-based activities.
We took a stroll along the riverbank, but both agreed that, while it was pleasant, it didn’t have the same scenic appeal as some of the other rivers we’d encountered at other parks. The water was calm, but the landscape didn’t quite have the dramatic beauty of other spots we had visited. However, we still had a lot of fun walking along the gravel shore, examining the interesting rocks scattered along the bank. It was a peaceful, low-key experience that allowed us to connect with nature differently, and the variety of rocks made for an enjoyable exploration.
Petroglyphs at Washington State Park
After exploring the river, we decided to visit the park’s petroglyphs. We stopped at an overlook perched on a high cliff along the way. While the idea of a sweeping view was appealing, the dense tree cover obscured most of the scenery, and the overlook faced a plowed field that detracted somewhat from the natural ambiance. As I wandered around, I stumbled upon a piece of shredded snake skin, which gave me pause and made me tread more carefully as I returned to the truck.
We eventually located the petroglyphs, one of the most unique features of Washington State Park. Unlike the petroglyphs we’d seen in the Southwest, which were often carved into vertical rock faces, these were etched into the flat tops of exposed rock surfaces. This positioning made them distinct but also challenging to appreciate fully. Some of the carvings were obscured by moss and weathering, blending into the natural surface of the stone.
Fortunately, the site included several informative signs that helped us interpret what we were looking at. The displays explained the carvings’ meanings, ranging from symbolic figures to representations of animals and tools, offering a glimpse into the lives and beliefs of the Indigenous peoples who created them. We also learned that these petroglyphs account for nearly three-quarters of all the petroglyphs found in Missouri, making this site particularly significant. Despite their weathered appearance, the carvings stood as an important connection to the past, and it was humbling to be in the presence of such ancient artistry.
Drive Back to the Campsite
As we left the park and returned to our campsite, the rain finally passed, leaving us with a stretch of beautiful, sunny skies. Oddly enough, the bright sunlight seemed to mute the vibrant colors of the trees we’d admired earlier under overcast skies, giving the landscape a softer, less dramatic appearance.
We came across a historical marker near Caledonia and decided to stop on our way back. The marker commemorated a Methodist college that once operated in the area, though the plaques detailing its history were weathered and somewhat difficult to read. What caught my attention most were the bases of the monuments, which were embedded with native Missouri rocks. The stones added a unique, local touch to the structure, making it as much a part of the landscape as the story it told.
We also stopped at Scenic Overlook of Buford Mountain. It was impossible to get a good picture of how picturesque the fall colors looked on the mountain.
We stopped at Casey’s to fill up for our jump the next day and then stopped again at a McDonald’s parking lot so that I could use its wifi to plot a course for the next day.
Shut-ins
Before we got back to the campsite, we stopped to look at the Shut-ins one more time. When we arrived at about 5:25 pm, we noticed a sign that stated that the shut-in area closed at 6 pm. This gave us enough time to get parked, take a 10-minute look, and leave the park.
Evening
Lisa fixed some big salads with chicken for dinner, and we watched some more Netflix that I had downloaded before heading off to bed.
22 October, Thursday
Because we had a five-hour drive ahead of us, we got moving quickly in the morning and were on the road by 9:30 am. The day promised to be beautiful and warm, which made it nice for driving purposes, but on the other hand, it would have been nice not to have to spend the entire day in the truck.